1.31.05 - Luang Prabang, Laos - Half the fun is in getting there....right?

Picture this...it's 2:15am, I'm sitting by a fire, staring up at millions of stars overhead, and spotting one or two shooting stars and making the perfect wishes.

Sounds great - if it was intentional and my wishes weren't:
1) that the Lao people on the bus stop getting motion sickness. After 18 hours I was really and truly concerned with their well-being and fearful that we might run out of plastic bags!!!
2) that the bus stop breaking down (5 flat tires) and that we put an end to this originally 9 hour....now on to 18+ hour bus ride (but I suppose our 40 seat bus would have had to lighten its load now that it's carrying 50-60 passengers (towards the end they were almost 2 across each row in the aisle) and MASSIVE amounts of cargo both inside and on top of the bus).

We'd travelled approximately 250km (from Sam Neua to Nong Khiao surrounding area) and after 20+ hours we finally climbed off that bus once and for all. I have to admit that after spending that much time in the bus with these people (adults and children with the patience of saints!) and spending quality time around roadside fires watching the driver and his pals work magic with the tires, I was a little sad to say good-bye (unlike the bus ride from Hanoi to Vientiane)...despite the obvious language barriers. When in doubt share your food - that seemed to work with the kids! It was a truly memorable experience.

We arrived in the village at 4am and we had to beat on the door of a guest house in order to catch a little rest (4 hours) before continuing on the river part of our travels to Luang Prabang. Surprisingly when I awoke I was feeling fairly refreshed and ready to continue (and ready to get out of that icky guest house!)...I couldn't wait to get to LP. I'd heard magical things about this city and looked forward to our much needed "long stay" for some time. The 6 hour river journey to LP was spectacular and so happy we opted to do that leg of the journey floating down the Mekong...despite the previous misadventures and urge to just "get the trip over with" by continuing in the bus. We plan to be here for just over one week - it's an absolute dream!! This past week has probably been one of the most gruelling travel-wise but I'm assured it's good preparation for our upcoming travels in Myanmar and India (Nepal is now up in the air in light of the latest developments....)

In my experience, much of the travel in Laos outside the "tourist corridor" of Vientiane - Vang Vieng - Phonsavan (Plain of Jars) - Luang Prabang (ie. off the beaten track) seems a bit more involved. This is of course based on my limited experience - but let's just say that if you miss your connecting bus (which is likely given the mechanical troubles described above)...you can't exactly hitchike your way out of town....especially when there aren't any cars!

On the trip from Phonsavan (Plain of Jars) to Sam Neua we first had to track down our bus...which had mysteriously decided not to show up. We had bought tickets at 7am, inquired several times about when and where to await the bus, and waited for the 8am departure. When that came and went the bus station attendant informed us that the bus had been there at 7:30am...but found no one waiting so left! This had to have been a complete lie because we'd been waiting there the entire time and the station wasn't that busy...they knew first thing that morning when we bought the ticket that we were going to Sam Neua. Would we like to go somewhere else? the attendant asked. Miffed (very "un-lao" I know) I requested that he find an alternate way for us to continue on our original itinerary. Surprisingly, a few minutes later, a songthaew pulls up that could take us part of the way - but we'd have to make a connection in Nam Neun...but the bus station attendant assured us that our connecting bus would wait. Luckily there was an older gentleman on the songthaew, also going to Sam Neua, who spoke english and that was quite helpful when we missed our connection in Nam Neun...the second bus had opted not to wait. We actually sat on the side of an intersection in the village of Phou Lao (20 minutes away) for 4 hours waiting for a "connection" to Sam Neua (northeast Laos). Surprisingly in this instance the only car to show up had one available seat and our english speaker took off!!!! Deserted we headed back to Nam Neun to spent the night in a guesthouse - that felt more like camping. Let's just say for once I was happy there wasn't any electricity in the bathroom!!!

But again half the fun is in getting there. How boring would it be if I knew what to expect. It's been during those times "on the side of the road" that I've had the best time taking photos (and especially sharing the wonders of modern technology with the kids) and engaging with the people that we meet along the way. I'm so glad that we continued on past Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars to Sam New/ Vieng Xai to see the hideout caves of the Pathet Lao revolutionaries.

So outside of the travel adventures the following is a list of highlights:

Vang Vieng: Total riverside, backpacker hangout and THE place to catch up on old episodes of Friends which seems to be shown in every restaurant in town (and there are many). But it's amazing how quickly you can get sucked in. I had never seen the episodes where Joey likes Rachel so I was happy to have the opportunity to close that chapter after 6 hours of watching TV one afternoon! ;) But the sheer repetition and monotony of it all almost forces one to partake of one of the many herbal treats these restaurants offer in various forms (ie. opium tea, happy pizza, special garlic bread, etc.) - out there in plain daylight. Don't worry about me mum and dad...it's just an observation.
If you're able to pluck yourself off the "sofa" there are plenty of caves to explore and outdoor activities like kayaking and tubing down the river. We checked out one of the least developed caves, Lusy cave. Hard to believe that you can walk for 1 hour and still be in total darkness, wading through water and checking out amazing rock formations. It's true.
Tubing proved to be a great way to cool off. I remember once asking my father for money to go tubing down the Kaministiquia river outside Thunder Bay - and he jokingly told me he'd rather give me money to "shoot up" - obviously refering to how dirty the water is and how stupid people can be in tubing situations. I had to chuckle about that as I settled in to my tube for the long, lazy ride down the river. It was a fun afternoon - and I learned that flip flops are not only the perfect form of foot apparel but they are excellent at propelling you through the water faster if you put them on your hands to help you paddle!!!
Vang Vieng was very, very relaxing - but we had to get out of there....

Phonsavan: The Plain of Jars are a series of stone carved jars believed to be 2000 years old that are found in various sites around Phonsavan. They are believed to have been used a funeral urns. It's quite a spectacle, SE Asia Stonehenge - and we actually toured all 3 sites, each set in some amazing scenery. More astonishing are the battle trenches from the Ho Chi Minh trail that are found at site 1 and the bomb craters and warnings of UXO that dot not just these sites, but the entire countryside. The US really did a number on this country, and particularly this province Xieng Khouang, by dropping cluster bombs (bombs that are clearly used to target civilians and not military targets) - many of which remain unexploded yet very lethal to this day - on their runs in and out of Vietnam as well as throughout the "Secret War" in Laos. "Same same but different" from the other stories of US involvement in Indochina during that time. Here's a link to an interesting article I found online...http://www.thingsasian.com/goto_article/article.1108.html
Along the way we stopped in at a local village for lunch. Luckily for us this village is known for their noodles and the family we visited whipped up the most amazing treat - fried pork and onions wrapped in these noodles. So simple yet so delicious. Wash those down with the obligatory lao-lao (rice whisky) and you're a happy camper!!! Honestly the real treat was spending time with the family - and especially the father who gave us a little insight in to his experience during the war...including the time they spent living in the caves (working at night in the fields to avoid being seen) and his brief stint a re-education camp for his interaction with American soldiers. This was hard for him to talk about...but we were very thankful for his insight. I can't even imagine living through that and having the strength to rebuild...and forgive....but that's what the Lao have done.
At the end of the tour we watched two films about the secret war - "The Ravens" and one about the work being done to rid the country of UXOs. Very insightful...I still can't believe what these people have endured.

Vieng Xai: Toured the caves inhabited by the Pathet Lao communist revolutionaries - some for as many as 9 years - during the war with the royalist/ American forces. Caves were built out, with the help of Vietnamese and Chinese "cave consultants" that include living and working spaces, as well as hospital facilities and emergency air tight rooms pumped with oxygen in the event of a chemical attack. Amazing that these mountains could withstand the force of air bombing - but they did - and they served as shelter not just for the revolutionaries but also for the local villagers just trying to survive on a day to day basis.

Laos has been very eye-opening and a bit more work than we've had up until now...but it feels good. This is truly a special place and one that I'm glad to see at this stage of development. Now I plan to soak it all in and learn to live "lao style" - very laid back, patient, quiet, etc. Wish me luck!

MC's in the process of uploading more photos - and with our extended stay I should be able to get through the "naming" process so that you have a better idea of what you're looking at. Additionally it will help me upon my return to remember what I was actually taking photos of!!!!

Some fun words of advice passed on from my friend Alicia:

"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, a few minutes late, Champagne in one hand - chocolate in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming WOO HOO - What a Ride!"

1.18.05 - Vientiane, Laos - Finally a new posting...but more to come!

It's been some time since the last entry - and that's because so much has taken place - there's been so much to do. But quite honestly some of the time lapse has been due to the fact that it was so cold (relatively speaking of course) in Hanoi that taking the time needed to sit in an Internet Cafe (note: unheated) was too gruelling. Sad but true. Due to those cold temps I'm now carrying around a bomber jacket should we run in to similar conditions. But so far it's been nothing but sunny and warm in Vientiane.

But with that said I should provide a run down of the events involving the last days in Vietnam and the events that transpired on the trip to Vientiane:
- Russian military Jeep tour of northwest Vietnam travelling through breathtaking scenery, winding up and down the steppest mountain passes, and of course, honking the horn as we rounded turns, honking the horn as we passed cars and honking the horn frantically as we passed cars while rounding turns (always on the highest, sharpest and blindest turns). It was on this trip that we met our friend Chris from Belgium. We ended up spending roughly one week together - and the fact that he agreed to meet us our for dinner (on his own free time!!) meant that our company couldn't have been that bad. Chris can of course comment below if he feels otherwise! ;)

- Trekking to minority villages around Sapa in the fog, wet, cold muddy countryside. Every second was well worth it because it was thrilling to walk along the terraced rice paddies (dodging water buffalo poo along the way - that stuff is quite sizeable!), get up and close through the many hill tribe villages (Black Hmong, Red Dao, etc), and even navigate up and down steep mountain sides...slipping and sliding the entire way only to be passed by the "locals" managing the same track in sandals...they had to be freezing. Of course it'd have been nice to have better weather - but that's not the reality of the hill tribe people. Sapa is very cold (high elevation) and damp - it's not all sunshine and roses - but they manage to survive and get on with life quite remarkably with the fewest provisions..and with people like us traipsing through their villages.

- Sleeping in traditional homes in two different minority villages which also meant enduring minority village temperatures (8.5 degrees celsius on one particularly chilly morning). There's nothing like sitting on stools, perched low to the dirt floor, huddled around the only source of heat, the wood fire in the kitchen, watching the food being prepared. I have to say, we ate so well during those days. There's just something about the cold that makes you want to eat!

- Meeting, hanging out and learning from the little hill tribe girls. They greeted us the moment we entered our the village en route to our first night homestay. There were about 6 girls who proceeded to interrogate us with the same line of questioning: What's your name? How old are you? (They always responded: "You're so young!!! It was funny to hear that coming from an 8 year old) Are you married? etc. They walked us all the way to the guesthouse where we continued to chat, take photos and of course buy a few bracelets. Before departing, Zhung, the eldest at 12 years old and the one I'd gotten closest to (her and Zung the 8 year old) and made my purchases from, called me out from the kitchen to present me with a woven bracelet...for free!!! I had to give her a bit hug in return. They next morning they returned. I felt bad that my immediate reaction was, what will they be selling me now. Instead I walked out and was asked: Do you remember me? I was shocked! The exchanges that morning involved sharing my contact information with the girls. Writing it in triplicate for distribution among the group. When would I be coming back? Maybe in two years when I'm married? they asked. This line of questioning continued as they walked us to the edge of the village. Again Zhung and Zung said - Remember me. And I bent down and gave them the only thing I hope would mean something to them, the biggest hugs in the world (good advice from my mother)...in hope that they would remember me!

- Wheeling and dealing with the hill tribe ladies in the Sapa market. I have 2 Hmong blankets, bracelets and other decorative bits heading home in a TNT package as we speak (along with all the clothes from Hoi An).

- Sailing/ kayaking through the gorgeous World Heritage site and natural wonder, Halong Bay (sleeping on the boat or in a beach hut for 2 nights). The second day, when the sun came out, the views were spectacular...and we even got to see the stars at night!

- Surviving a horrendous, misguided kayak experience through a very dark cave where we lacked the skill and know-how to navigate in the pitch black. I was unfortunate to be the one in front and MC was paddling - so needless to say I was run in to a rock or two. We managed fine (surprisingly cause I was terrified - but several couples will be undergoing couples counselling!!). One of our team members (and founding "Leisure Club" member, Ian) capsized in the depths of the cave. He was actually trying to avoid running in to us!!! Our guide's response was less than stellar and he actually ended up flipping his kayak as well. It was a lesson in proper crisis management and leadership...or rather, how not to handle that type of situation. Ian survived and managed to warm up around the fire back at base camp.

- And of course our now infamous bus ride to Laos where we were used as pawns in a 27 hour drug smuggling run across the border. How do I know it was drugs? What would you think when a bus makes stops throughout the evening to pick up local passengers and/ or their clandestine cargo....and the "falang" (foreigners) were never given the proper opportunity to eat and relieve themselves. I found myself at 3am relieving myself on the side of the road...good thing it was dark. What would think when the driver and his cronies pull over to the side of the road, disassemble, among other things, the stairs, in order to hide "bricks" of something or other wrapped in plastic. Did I mention they were also under the bus taping things to the under carriage of the bus? Yes - it's true. I should also mention that a very rude, obnoxious woman appeared to be the ringleader. No one spoke english (or claimed not to) but I swear she was the female Southeast Asian Pablo Escobar. And you'd think they'd be nice to us? Don't be crazy!! It was horrible. I should also mention that our transfer bus ran over a woman on her motorcycle on our way out of Hanoi. Luckily it was the bike, and not the woman, wedged under the bus (the woman fell off and appeared to be shaken and in shock - but no cuts, no blood)...but once the bike was unwedged our driver took off!!!! Sad but true.

I loved my stay in Vietnam so much...but with this finale I felt like I was being kicked to the door. It's taken a few days, a bike ride through the countryside around Vientiane, a massage, a mani/ pedi and several Beer Lao - but I think I may have shaken those bad vibes. They'll be truly cast off once I make it in to the US Embassy to report the entire affair.

We've met some really great people over the last couple weeks. Chris from Belgium was with us for the Jeep tour and trek...and we even managed to get a nice night out back in Hanoi. Of course we had the great fortune of rooming with Deb and Dave from the UK on our overnight train from Sapa...and then later spending time with them in Halong Bay. I really enjoyed chatting with both of them...and then to find out that Deb is a real life midwife!!!! It was a dream come true. I didn't want to talk her ear off but after years of watching "Baby Story" and "Maternity Ward" on TLC I could think of quite a few questions...but I stayed calm. And finally there is another notable mention and that's our friend Ian, founding member of Leisure Club established in Halong Bay (Jan 2005). He's a fellow American who's planning to teach English in Bangkok and we hope to set a couple Leisure Club meetings when we head back there. And who knows....we may actually convince him to take Leisure Club to Myanmar with us!
All for now - but if you do want to get in touch with me I'm trying to switch over to a new account. The Hotmail service has been abysmal. You can try: dnatzke@gmail.com. Easy.
Take care
D

1.5.04 - I love Vietnam...and other news from Hanoi

First, I want to apologize for not returning emails sooner. Hotmail is failing me at the moment...I can read emails but I can't respond. I will keep trying...

Second, I want to reiterate the fact that I had only planned on spending 2-3 weeks in this country. I wasn't expecting to like it at all. Now we're maxing our stay for the full length of our visa (just over 30 days...odd really) and exiting the country for Laos only at the very last possible second. Those details at the end of the email...

We arrived in Hanoi the morning of the 3rd after a very comfortable commute from Hue. We opted for the night train this time (Express - left Hue at 5pm and arrived Hanoi 5am) which meant we could actually stretch out on our own top bunk in a sleeper car (4 people to a compartment). It was really quite comfortable and soothing...the motion of the train quickly put me to sleep.

We were picked up at the train station and whisked off to a hotel (our hotel in Hue had made arrangments for us)...but par for the course we were no longer in the hotel we were supposed to be in. Apparently the original hotel was full so someone from another hotel was called in to assist. Yikes - so many decisions to make at 5am. Needless to say the alternative wasn't suitable...so a quick walk down the street took us to their "upscale" version ($15 instead of $12 per day). To make a long story short - the room didn't have heat (and it was colder than it was outside), the hot water ran out by the time you finally warmed up in there....and this was the first time in a long time where we couldn't get CNN or BBC (forunately the German station broadcasts english news later in the evening). We've since resolved the heating issues (by switching rooms) which is a huge improvement. I can do without the TV. But there's more to Hanoi than the hotel and that's what's really exciting.

Like HCMC/ Saigon there are tons of people everywhere...but it seems almost more bottled up in the narrow streets of the Old Quarter where we are staying.

Highlights of Hanoi - some elaborated more than others:
- Water Puppet Theater: A must see here in Hanoi. Includes live musical performance and puppet show set on a stage. The puppeteers actually stand waist deep in water. The skits are short and deal mostly with every day life...but are really very amusing. (www.thingsasian.com/goto_article/article.829.html)

- Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum: This is truly a production - the monument, the security, the line of people, the lighting of the embalmed body...the simplicity of it all really. I had seen Mao's Mausoleum in Beijing and this was definitely a more refined production than what I remember. More in line with how I would expect to find the Lenin Mausoleum. For more info: www.fodors.com/miniguides/mgresults.cfm?destination=hanoi@71&cur_section=sig&property_id=32847 The area around the Mausoleum is truly dedicated to the legend of the man - the kind Uncle Ho as he is depicted throughout the country.
First there is Ho Chi Minh's Residence --- located behind a more ornate Presidential Palace, Ho spent most of his time living in a home more "peasant-like" behind the palace itself. It's the image of a man of the people. It's all about spinning a tale and I definitely want to learn more about Uncle Ho myself. For a brief intro check out this link: www.fodors.com/miniguides/mgresults.cfm?destination=hanoi@71&cur_section=fea&feature=30004
Second we ventured in to the Ho Chi Minh Museum - a true cult of personality but I suppose that's what makes a good leader. I haven't been to any presidential libraries - but this tour has certainly peaked my interest.... http://www.fodors.com/miniguides/mgresults.cfm?destination=hanoi@71&cur_section=sig&property_id=32848

- Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton)

- Temple of Literature

- Food: Cha ca (Cha Ca La Vong restaurant feature one dish, Cha Ca, which you cook - but we got help from the staff - on hot open coal right on your table), Brother's Cafe for the lunch buffet (you can go there for lunch after spending the morning discovering Ho Chi Minh and before starting the afternoon at Hoa Lo Prison (aka Hanoi Hilton) and the Temple of Literature since most places close for 2 hours at lunch), pho (noodle soup) for breakfast

On to the next thing....
We found a great tour operator, Handspan, that specializes in small group tours. Tomorrow we're leaving on a 6 day jeep tour (in a Russian jeep) through the North West area of the country - MC, myself, some Belgian guy (we opted to take on a third to defray the cost of the trip...it brought down his cost considerably) and a driver. The scenery is supposed to be spectacular but the roads are liable to knock the fillings out of your teeth. The end of the the road trip involves a couple days of trekking around Sapa and spending 2 nights in two different minority villages. Good times. (Needless to say we're delaying shipping back of our stuff until the post hill tribe visits....) Check out the link and details of this Northwest Adventure: www.handspan.com/4wd_northwest.asp

Upon our return we'll be whisked off to Halong Bay for a 3 day/ 2 night adventure through this incredible area. I'm sure it's much like Phang Nga, Thailand - but we'll see. That was pretty spectacular and I think this might be even on a grander scale. One night will be spent aboard a boat (no more than 12 people max) and the next night will be spent on the beach in bungalows. Should be a blast!! Again check out the link: www.handspan.com/kayakdiscovery.asp I doubt that I'll go swimming - but then again, never say never!!! ;)

The afternoon after coming back from Halong Bay (the 15th) we're scheduled to depart for Vientiane, Laos. 20 hours on a bus...our visa expires the 17th and we are supposed to cross over in to Laos the morning of the 17th. I'll keep you posted.

Michael's email: WorldTrek 1/5/05: Safe and sound and thanks to everyone for asking...

Hello everyone -

First I just want to assure everyone that we're safe and sound and
currently in Hanoi, Vietnam. We are both quite moved at how many
emails came through asking after our well being - we're lucky to have
so many great friends. Thanks so much to everyone.

The tsunami was quite scary - not in the fact that we were personally
in any jeopardy...but more in the realization that so many of the
people we had met in our travels have been affected. One gentlemen
from the US ran a scuba outfit on Ko Phi Phi and had gone out of his
way to help us out. We saw him being interviewed on BBC News saying
that he didn't know where many of his employees and friends were. It's
just so sad...but people here are getting on with their lives (being
relatively unaffected). Right now we're still planning on visiting
India but perhaps not the deep south as we had originally thought.

We did manage to have a wonderful Christmas and New Year's despite the
tragedy. After leaving Dalat, we traveled to the wonderful city of Hoi
An. Where I got totally sucked in and got clothes made. It is just SO
cheap and everything is custom made to fit. First, they give you a
catalog where you can just pick anything you want made...or a magazine
or picture printed from the internet...or you could just point to
anyone walking by and ask them to copy the clothes...or even just
drawing something on a napkin. Then they take at least 30 measurements
and the whole time they're saying how nice a pair of grey pants would
work with that shirt you're buying. At first it was one suit for
me...and then another...and some shirts...and a pair of shoes... I
don't think I've worn a suit since 1997 much less nice clothes on a
daily basis. You'll have to read Deanna's blog for her account, but
let's just say that we are now hauling around a brand new huge duffel
bag in addition to our (extremely heavy) backpacks. Oh...Hoi An was
also quite beautiful...old French buildings and a lot of Chinese style
architecture.

From there, we went to Hue. Hue was...what's the best word for
it...cold. Bitterly cold. And raining. For the entire time we were
there. Good idea: Going out with some new friends for a great dinner
and drinks for New Years. Bad idea: Taking a motorbike tour for six
hours in the rain. It was freezing cold. I'm still not warm. One
highlight of Hue was a restaurant we went to where the owner is deaf
and just signs everything to you as you are ordering (it works...).
The food was great and what was interesting is that the restaurant was
called "Lac Thanh"...but in true Vietnamese fashion success breeds
imitators so next door there was "Lac Thienh" and yet a third
similarly named...all with deaf waiters.

And now we're in Hanoi. It's incredible. The city is so historic and
bustling with activity. We're staying in the Old Quarter and it's just
great. Traditionally all the streets were named for what the merchants
sold/did on that street. And it's still fairly true today.
Interestingly our hotel is on Hang Bac - the gravestone street. We
literally walk by the artisans making funeral plaques, etc... and in
true merchandising fashion they use celebrity pictures on some of the
plaques to sell their wares. Deanna took a picture of the Britney
Spears funeral plaque...perhaps to mark the end of Britney's career.

There is just so much going on in Hanoi. We went to see Ho Chi Minh
Mausoleum. You file in and get to see the perfectly preserved body
with a soft white light shining on him. It's pretty amazing, a little
creepy, and since he's dressed in all-white Deanna and I both
independently decided that he looked a bit like Col. Sanders of
Kentucky Fried Chicken fame. It's a weird experience, but he is a
national communist hero and I guess they follow the tradition of Lenin
and Mao.

The other stunner about Hanoi. It's cold. I've now bought (in
addition to the Hoi An stuff) a new winter jacket, long pants, and
gloves. Deanna bought me a fantastic winter hat in Dalat so I should
be fully outfitted shortly. I only brought two pairs of long pants on
the trip and I threw one away in Bangkok thinking "when am I ever going
to need TWO pairs of long pants?". Fast forward to now when I'm
thinking 2005 will the "the year of no showering". Did I mention our
room in Hanoi doesn't have heat? Ugh. One more question to ask.

Okay. So next up we take a fabulous 6 day trip through Northwest
Vietnam. We're excited...we ride in a 4WD jeep through some rough
terrain and then end up in Sapa where we'll trek and stay with some of
the ethnic minority hill tribes around that area. We're doing our best
to get a "true" experience...there's only three people on our tour and
we'll be staying in homestays. We'll see... After that, we take a two
day trip to Halong Bay and then back to Hanoi for a 20 hour bus ride to
Vientiene - finally entering Laos! At this rate, we should be home
well before next Christmas.

Best to everyone and thanks again for all your concerns and holiday
wishes.

Michael

1.1.2005 - HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

Hope everyone had a lovely New Year's Eve!!!! We had a great time - ate dinner with a Dutch couple we'd met hiking while in Dalat and ran in to here in Hue (Nynke and Jelle are staying in the neigboring hotel). The four of us along with another Dutch fellow enjoyed a lovely Italian dinner before heading the DMZ bar with the rest of the foreigner community in Hue. Here we also ran in to a couple we'd sat next to at Cafe des Amis (great set menu and excellent food) in Hoi An - Karen and Josh. What fun. Good times - although they did do the countdown to midnight 3 minutes prematurely...very odd.

Today, New Year's Day, was spent riding around on the back of a motorbike in the rain. It's been raining/ drizzling and a little chilly since we arrived but couldn't let that stop us from seeing the sites. So we toured a number of tombs, pagodas and even ventured deep in the countryside to see a Japanese covered bridge. The ride through the villages, rice paddies, pagodas and temples was spectacular. It was a chilly 5-6 hours but definitely worth it. Our drivers were equally cold (and I'm sure they were hoping we'd cave) but we were hardy souls. We had a great time and met some interesting characters along the way! Spent the latter part of the afternoon resting (we had to request extra blankets from the hotel staff) and watching "Life as a House" - needless to say I was once again in tears (that movie always does it to me!).

Now I'm in an internet cafe trying to access Hotmail - I've had great difficulties accessing my account over the last couple days in Hue. So if you're trying to reach me and I haven't responded...that's why. If it's urgent you might try posting to this board - just in case. Tomorrow we're off to Hanoi on an overnight train. First train ride since starting this trip (and it's going to be a long one) and I'm actually quite excited!

Happy New Year!!!