3.31.05 - The first couple days in India....

My arrival in India (via Delhi) has been quite a shock after a rather posh existence in the more familiar and friendlier SE Asia. (especially after just coming from Thailand!!).
We've spent about 4 days in Delhi - these last 2 have been during a strike to protest the VAT (value added tax) to be implemented April 1 by the government. All retail shops are closed during the day...but things seem to pick up at night. I must say that having all commercial activity halted during the day really makes it much easier to walk the streets - especially around the narrow street in Panarganj (the backpacker area where we are staying) and in Old Delhi (which we toured yesterday).
The pace and amount of activity going on around you...all day long...is just mind boggling. I've seriously been just exhausted at the end of the day - and honestly looking forward to the 10 o'oclock hour when I can catch up on "Friends" (although I saw most episodes in Vang Vieng, Laos) and "Will and Grace." Those are good times. It's hard to walk around the city - both physically and mentally - with horns honking, rickshaws racing past you, cows blocking traffic, people peeing wherever they feel like it, all kinds of noises coming at you, people getting your attention to buy, look at, eat, ask for money, etc. I had expected there to be a lot more beggars but so far it hasn't been terrible. I can't believe 14 million people live in Delhi - mostly in condition like this...if not worse. I'm surprised this place hasn't been striken by some horrible plague/ accident, and I would hardly wish it to happen, it's just amazing given the lack of sanitation, recklessness on the roads,etc.
But honestly it is a refreshing change of pace with so much new "stuff" to see and learn. India is a very interesting country on so many levels and the more I interact with the locals the more I start to understand the various nuances of their politics, religion, culture, etc. In fact, it was on our tour of Delhi that I really got to understand the divide that exists between Hindus and Muslims. Our tour guide was a staunch Indian nationalist and had nothing good to say about Muslims...specifically in neighboring Pakistan. Now much of this rhetoric may have been further ignited by the fact that Pakistan had one the latest Indo-Pakistani test match in cricket - but I doubt it. He did try to convince us all that India was the most important country in the world...and would be more powerful if it hadn't been plundered through the years by "invaders" like the Mughals and most recently the "Britishers." Interesting to sit back and here him go on and on....
But I dare not continue because I know not enough about this place yet...and what I have learned to date has yet to really settle in. I can say that so far I've been free of any dire stomach issues and from what I can tell the whole "Delhi belly" syndrome has more to do with obesity amoung the middle class in Delhi than any sort of intestinal distress. There are some seriously overweight people living in the city. I'm sure this will change as we move in to the more rural areas - but here in town it's staggering. I can understand when the dishes just seem to float in oil....and with offerings like the most delicious Butter Chicken (chicken stewed in a very rich, mildly spicy sauce) that I ate last night, who can blame them. ;)
We're off to Varanasi by train later today...this is a city located on the Ganges and considered one of the most holy places in India (although you get the sense that all city make that claim from reading the guide books) where cremations take place 24 hours a day along the river. More to come...

3.27.05 - On the way to Delhi

I can't believe it. I'm finally leaving SE Asia. I'm right now sitting in the airport in Kuala Lumpur - gorgeous building really - and spending an exobitant amount to jot down a few thoughts before heading off to Delhi. I'm so excited - I can hardly contain myself at this point.

So the rest of the time on the island was very very relaxing. The Full Moon Party on Had Rin (Sunrise Beach) met all my expectations and then some. The evening certainly started off on the right note with a lovely sushi dinner. Splendid fare! Then we headed to the beach which proceeded to just get more crowded and louder as it got later and later. Huge speakers lined the beach and you could hear a full range of music - from hip hop to trance. A little something for everyone. In addition to the tunes there was plenty of food, fire dancing and buckets upon buckets - that's what people drink from. Settle in with a bucket and about 6 straws and you've immediately made some friends. Very friendly people all up and down the beach on this particular night.

To get in the festive mood I had the wings painted on my back in neon colors (I had been hunting for a bright pink wig but failed miserably) - this looked spectacular under the black lights (check out the new photos posted on our site). I couldn't really see them but just know they were there helped me fly...right on up to the dance floor. I don't know where the time went but before I knew it the clock struck 5am...and I was sitting outside my bungalow (having just gone for a quick swim in the ocean to wash away my wings)...finally ready to call it a "night". All the resting up I'd done previously had been wasted away in a few short hours. But life's too short to worry about that.

We had a ferry to catch at noon...followed by a night train to Bangkok. Talk about going that extra mile. Absolutely exhausted - but there's nothing better than getting on that train and knowing you won't be doing anything for the next 13 hours but read, rest and sleep!!! Very cozy thoughts.

One last night in Bangkok was spent with our friend Ian - we went to Soi Cowboy (bye bye Patpong) and then to a party to celebrate the demolition of the apartment where the party was being held. The place really wasn't that bad but I'm sure there are plans for a bigger and better tower of homes. I got to meet a lot to teachers who are currently working in Bangkok. Sounds like a great gig!

But at the end of the night it was time to say good bye to Ian and our times in Bangkok. I thought I'd be more sad...I had a moment on the beach in Ko Phangan...crying on the hammock. Very sad. But now I just find myself so excited about what lies ahead! Luckily we'll be having someone pick us up in Delhi - and then we already have plans to meet up with our friends Deb and Dave (who we'd also met on the Halong Bay, Vietnam trip with Ian) and hopefully see Tim along the way as well. Such a small world.

As I mentioned there are new photos posted on our site. Note that there are a lot of eating and drinking photos - and some involve props that aren't of my doing. Just having a good time --- especially when "Leisure Club" is involved. Never a dull moment.
photos: www.kodakgallery.com (I guess ofoto just rebranded themselves)
login: mdchiang@gmail.com
pass: offandaway


Happy Easter to you all and hopefully spring has sprung wherever you might be.
Hugs
D

3.21.05 - Waiting for the Full Moon Party on Koh Phangan

We finally made it to Koh Phangan...and we found a great bungalow (Tropicana Resort on Ban Tai beach) on the beach...gorgeous white sand....warm water....hammocks!!! I'm in heaven....We're hanging out here until the 25th...the day after the infamous Full Moon Party. We're a bit of a drive from Had Rin where all the "action" is but it's an easy, very hilly (I mean San Francisco type hills!!) taxi ride in to town. But to be away from all the rucus is such a treat. Just listening to the waves, walking along the desolate beach lined with coconut trees....spectacular!
Looks like we might have some fun people to hang out with - ran in to our trekking buddies from Chiang Mai - the guy who killed the pig, his girlfriend, and a host of their other friends!

The past several days were spent in Ko Samui - on Chaweng Beach to be exact. The place to party in the sun. Not much to report other than that I have now thoroughly relaxed and even managed to "sleep in" until 10pm. It was more like I have nothing pressing so what's the point.... We had a great little bungalow in the heart of the action within a few steps from the beach. We actually have TV in our room and there is a "movie channel" - essentially someone has access to the station and puts in whatever DVD is available...and oftentimes the words "For screening purposes only - not for public viewing or distribution" pop up on the screen. And when the movie is done the DVD screen pops up until a new movie is selected and put in the player. Hilarious!!!
It was nice because we had some friends to hang out with. It's really funny how we keep running in to the same people. One day consisted of hanging out with a couple guys we'd met in Luang Prabang (Dave) and again in Chiang Mai (Dave and Wolf). I'm learning from them how to pull off the work 6 months, take 6 months off gig. Don't worry - I'll avoid the dark side. But listening to them talk and recount all their stories is truly priceless. They'd be reminiscing, "This and that happened to us in 1977..." but wait!!! I was only 5 years old. Funny moments like that.
What else...listened to some great live music a couple nights, went bowling (a truly lamentable experience), ate on the beach...and just hung out. This is the life.

3.16.05 - Thinking back to Myanmar

As promised...need to fill in some gaps about the trip in Myanmar....

From Mandalay we headed to the hillside town of Kalaw. Overnight bus of course. Much like Dalat, Vietnam this town was popular during colonial times as a place to get away from the heat of the city. It was a beautiful town complete with colonial homes, a great central market (and 5 day market), and some very colorful people. Including Sam, the owner of Sam's Treks who is single handedly trying to develop and promote sustainable eco-tourism around the area. Talk about giving back! In addition to running tours he and his family have also opened a restaurant, send around a doctor to look after the people in the surround 83 villages that he treks through, opened a "boarding house" this past year and plan to use it to help educate the kids from the villages (in exchange for their return to the area after their studies) as Kalaw is the only place they can attend secondary school. He hopes to grow this latest venture to a rather sizeable group of kids but to start off he's invited approx. 6 girls to kick start the program. He decided to start with girls because he felt they were more "stable" and would be the best ambassadors upon their return...and they would teach others in their community what they've learned...and that sense of responsibility.

The meeting with Sam resulted in us signing up for a 3 day trek to Inle Lake. This is something I'd been wanting to do - despite some having voiced concerns about the "heat." What an amazing opportunity and it was made more special because of our guide, Tay-Zar (Sam's nephew). He's 23, studying English and French in Yangon, and is an excellent tour guide - thoughtful, introspective, enthusiastic...and he loves kids. Perfect marriage material girls!!! ha ha ha He offered some insight into what it's like to grow up under such a restrictive government - including what it's like to no longer have access to english language movies and music (a particularly useful study tool...among other things). Much like the monk we met in Mandalay...if there is ever anyone you know travelling to Myanmar I would love to send him along some "materials." Let me know.

On our trip we had the pleasure of travelling with two other women, Dani (Californian) and Anna (Danish). Apart from being just some of the most well spoken and charismatic people they were also a delight to trek with because I got to do a bit of girl talk...something I've been missing terribly. AND once the trek was finished we spent the next few days in and around Inle Lake sightseeing, eating, chatting...and yes, shopping. Having like minded shoppers put me in a near frenzy and thanks to Dani's shrewd bargaining skills I even acquired a few items before I even knew I wanted them!! ;)

So many other great impressions - sorry if I repeat myself but I've been compiling this entry a bit at a time and I'm reluctant to give up any particular section:
-The men wear longyi - long skirts and they stay together thanks to a very ornate folding technique. The women have similar wear but they are differentiated by pattern of fabric and folding techniques. The funny thing is that none of these longyi are finished on the ends - the salvage makes a natural hem - something I'm sure my mother would find absolutely appalling!! But the question I have with the men, much like the Scotsmen who wear the kilts, what do they wear underneath? A horrible question - but one that begs to be asked. Well it was our bus driver from Bagan to Pyay that in part answered that question. He had just finished repairing something on the undercarriage of the bus...and as he slid out....his longyi untied and left him with a bare bottom in the middle of the road!!! I was really quite shocked but in a climate as warm as this it is the logical solution to staying as cool as possible I suppose. And it may explain why the men constantly tie and re-tie their longyi - they need to make sure it stays attached!

-The women and children (and even the men) smear a thin paste of tanakka (a wood) on their face to protect them from the sun. It really takes some getting use to because you feel like you need to tell them to finish rubbing their lotion in...you know how that goes. But with the intense pressure to keep your skin as fair as possible (dark skin = manual worker at least in the surrounding countries) this seems to make more sense than slathering on skin whitening cream which is a big seller over here.

-The majority of men and some women chew betel nut and spit the blood red juice wherever they see fit. And while we may be asked to remove our shoes when entering pagodas and women aren't allowed to enter certain areas of those same pagodas - no one really has any problems spitting this nastiness all over the place. Today was actually the first time I saw an actual "Don't Spit" sign going in to the Shan Chief Museum in Inle Lake. An interesting phenomenon and one that's difficult to get use to...especially when you're trying to talk to someone with such a habit and you're so distracted by the stain on their lips, mouth, teeth and gums. Such is life...we all have our vices, right?

-Monks for the most part seem to be just normal people too. Some do aspire to a higher following but others, especially the younger boys, are just serving their time and/ or taking advantage of free education, room and board (that sounds really too basic but that's what I've seen travelling around this country). The monks are often seen chewing betel nut, smoking, eating after noon....all forbidden by those who follow the strictest buddhist teachings.

- The government has halted the sale of english music and english movies. This is a recent occurance and one that deeply impacts someone like your trekking guide, Tay-Zar, who not only loves music but relies on these forms of media to practice his english. What you do HEAR are many cover versions of english songs which makes for some fun playing "Name that Tune"

- Inle Lake is a remarkable place. I think I mentioned this before - but I'm constantly thinking back to the clear waters, floating gardens, the fisherpeople...the air so cool and clean. But I'm also reminded of biking out to the hot springs. I headed out solo, biking along the road that crosses the flat marsh. Had a great time on the way out there...constantly checking in with people to make sure I was going the right way...had a blast. Got to the hot springs in time to stick my feet in the nice hot water and watch several groups of women (segregated pools for men and women) splish splashing around...dressed in their longyi and having a great time. I biked around a bit more before heading back to town...and that's when it happened. I was keeping to my side of the dirt road when all of a sudden a young school girl swerved in to my path. She'd been looking back talking to her friend. It all happened so fast and before I knew it we were both on the ground. She had fallen and hurt her bum...I was just shocked by the whole affair. I was so worried about her...and I wasn't able to communicate with her or the people helping her out. It was a very helpless feeling...and then it happened...I just started crying. There was really no other emotion that could demonstrate how scared, shocked and frustrated I was. I'm sure that scared the locals because they just looked at me and tried to re-assure me (I'm sure they were frustrated too) that everything was ok. That silly foreigner! The little girl composed herself and dusted herself off...and we both went on our way. But that had to be the longest ride home.... I'm just so happy she was ok.

- I believe I've briefed you on our quick stay in Yangon and hasty return to Bangkok. Myanmar was a special place and quite a surprise to me but I was ready to get back to Bangkok. We've been here since Saturday - 5 days - and now it's off to to Ko Samui and Ko Phangan tomorrow morning. While in town I've really enjoyed knowing a local - our friend Ian (co-founder of Leisure Club). We've spent a good bit of time hanging out with him and he's been good enough to show us around. Last night we went to the very swank BED Supperclub...too chic even for a place like LA!! It was hip hop night which offered up some great people watching. A funny thing happened on the way to BED...we stopped off to eat sushi at a sushi/ hot pot restaurant. We ordered our sushi and started eyeing the dishes going around on teh conveyor belt. We took a plate of raw beef, ate it, quite tasty - so I picked up another dish that looked like raw fish....but it wasn't. It was at that point that the waitress came up to us, giggling, and explaining that she'd be happy to cook that food for us...but the stuff on the conveyor belt was for the hot pot!!! (not to be consumed raw) Mortified we ate the rest of our meal as it was presented to us...and hoped for no ill effects. So far so good.

Enough embarrasing stories. Time for bed. Early train in the morning.
Hugs
D

3.12.05 - Back in BKK a day early....more to come

I'm back in Bangkok and it's hot hot hot - the only place in the region (actually it might have been the entire world!!!!) listed with triple digit temps. 102 today and 104 tomorrow.
Myanmar was fantastic with more details to follow on the blog....but time to get out of there and back to BKK...and get a hair cut and some other pampering before heading to Ko Samui in an effort to drag out this experience as long as possible!!! ;) We celebrated 5 months on the road yesterday...wasn't I suppose to be back after 6 months? In the 5 months I've visited 9 countries and the list of cities I've seen will soon follow. I know I promised that before but I will do it. Celebrated this milestone in Yangon by watching "National Treasure" (why does Nick Cage keep getting acting jobs? there were so many holes in that story...but I have to admit it was nice to be in a air conditioned room, it was worth it just to stand for the national anthem and watch a news reel of the recent happening of the Tatmadaw military regime (don't even get me started on their political, economic, social objectives and the "people's desires"....and of course it was leaps and bounds better than "Con-Air", another Nick Cage treat we had the pleasure with while on stuck the most recent 17 hour bus ride) having "Happy Hour at the infamous Strand Hotel...even then it just about broke the bank...and hanging out at the local "country pub" complete with some rather eclectic live music!!! Good times...
We've committed to leaving for India on the 27th....after we hit the Full Moon Party on Ko Phangan. Yeah - originally I thought I was too old for that kind of thing....but I was just lying to myself. This girl's still got it! ;)

3.9.05 - News from "the other side"

Hi all - for those who are checking I'm happy to report that I'm still in Myanmar - Inle Lake to be exact (a stunning part of the country and an experience that has involved: floating gardens, stilted villages, jumping cats, new fishing techniques, the unique leg rowing technique, hot springs, Burmese massage, hanging out with some great new friends...and listening to the bells from the neighboring pagoda as I fall asleep). I'm in the process of writing a rather extensive blog entry but I won't be publishing that for another couple days.
There is internet access and I'm even able to check all my email accounts...one can't stop progress....but it is a little costlier than I'm accustom to paying. Oh well....it's nice to catch up. So much to report and I just want to make sure I have it down right.
I'll be back in BKK on the 13th.
Hugs
D