4.23.05 - Travelling with friends around Rajasthan

Hello all - it's been some time since the last post and that's probably a good thing. I'm not spending so much time in the internet cafe because we met up with some other people about one week ago and we've been travelling with them and having a really good time. First I ran in to our friend Tim (Minnesotan) in Pushkar - I was on my way to my yoga class (yep, I signed up for a 3 day course that had me twisting, bending, breathing and meditating twice a day for two hours at a time on the rooftop of building. I absolutely loved the evening time, doing the practice in the cool air while looking up at the crystal blue sky and the moon...but I digress). We had orginally me Tim in Laos (albeit just one evening) and ran him again surrendipitously in Burma...planned to meet him in Bangkok and hoped to meet again in India...and there he was!!! It's funny to think that we've now spent time together in 4 different countries so far from "home"...a very impressive stat.

Pushkar was a nice change - very tourist oriented (and therefore so much easier for us to get around...and there's more stuff to do) and much quieter since it was the beginning of low season. The city is built around a small lake and there are ghats all around that allow worshippers to walk down to the water and bathe/ pray in this holiest of holy places. Our guest house provided a very excellent view of the lake and the pristine white buildings that frame it. It was an even better view of the night sky with the intermittent power outages that would take place in the evening. The city was so small and so easy to manage...the selection of restaurants was rather limited (all are vegetarian and don't serve alcohol in respect of the "holiness" of the city) and there was a plethora of Israeli choices...and lots of Israelis as well. They seem to travel in packs and for some reason or another, they are not highly regarded by the locals. I was just thankful to eat Israeli salad and falafel...yummy! We had left Jaipur and arrived in Pushkar during the Gangaur festival (a female oriented festival where women flock to the streets and pray for themselves, their husbands, future husbands, children, etc.) and as a result there was a parade in the streets every night (at least this is what we attributed the festivities in Pushkar to...who knows they may have processions of this kind every night). A mishmash of a parade that included a generator (that often backfired...or was that fireworks?) and children carrying around very heavy, electic candleabras (sp?). All the wires resulted in a logistical nightmare but the procession was well lit. A little something to spice up a rather sleepy little town.

The "Pushkar passport" is a rite of passage and while it's much quieter in the streets you are still approached by religious folks to go to the water and make your own prayers. How could I refuse? No sooner had I agreed did I find myself sitting near the water repeating a multitude of words in Hindi, tossing rice, powdered die, and water into the water...holding a coconut reverently...and yes, even "drinking" the sacred lake water (my acting skills are worthy of an Oscar!). I prayed for my family and friends...of course for guidance in direction upon my return home....and yes, to survive India. This took quite awhile but I left a few dollars poorer with a red dot on my forehead and string as a reminder tied around my wrist. It was this very string that is refered to as "the passport" and I would show it to others that approached me for the same "experience" and they would "leave me alone." I have to admit that I did feel something special having done it...but I'll just chalk it up to another one of those mystical moments in life.

We all travelled to Jaisalmer (in the middle of the Rajasthani desert) where we were intent, despite the heat, to take part in a camel safari. This part of the country is really quite amazing - out in the middle of the desert there are camels,lots of sand and people adorned in the most colorful clothes and turbans. We had the most amazing "perch" from our guesthouse room housed in the wall of the fort - that looked out along the fort wall, past the garbage left at the base of the fort...across the village to the windmill farm in the distance. Stunning sunset view!!!
Tim and I signed up for the 2 day camel trek and MC just one...and we agreed to have others in our group which was the best decision we've ever made because that allowed us to meet Josie...our new travel partner from the UK (a "Britisher") who's enjoying her last weeks before returning home after travelling for 1.5 years. She's been a god-send. We had so much fun in the desert...watching the sun set, the moon rise, eating around the camp fire, watching the camel tenders using sand to wash our dishes (I coined the term "sanditizing" for this activity), waiting out the heat under some trees surrounded by camel poo (they loosely refered to it as an "oasis"), sleeping under the stars (and praying that the beetles wouldn't crawl all over us), buying icy cold beverages from the brightly turbaned man in the local village (so much for the true desert experience) and even rolling down the sand dunes. Tim, Josie and myself, along with most of our other "new" friends in the group spent a good amount of time rolling down the sand dune at top speed, eyes and mouths clamped shut until we "hit" the bottom (and hopefully not each other). What were we thinking...I'm still picking out sand from various parts of me.
Despite all this fun it was agreed that we'd had enough after one night and the four of us (Josie was only doing one night as well) headed back to town...as we needed to make arrangements for the travel plan to head to the island of Diu via Jodphur, Udaipur - a plan hatched in the desert. The four of us (with a little indecision from Josie because she's already been to Jodphur and Udaipur but was willing to see those again just to visit her tailors!!!) are on a mission - to spend 5-7 days doing nothing on the island of Diu.

We stayed in haveli (large home) in Jodphur at the base of the fort (which by the way, is the most amazing audio tour I've ever had!!) and visited some sites, the tailors...and ate at the same restaurant every night ("On the Rocks" is so tasty - the best kebabs and coleslaw!!). Josie and I also spent the day with a local guest house owner, Yogi, who showed us around town and introduced us to the tailor and fabric shops. Day one with Yogi was fine - but he soon turned in to a freeloading scoundrel who uddered phrases like "I'm not getting commission so you should buy me lunch and dinner" "I've traveled all over the world and haven't paid for a thing cause the women always pay" and "I'm not begging you for food." Great lines like that...he was a sulker and just a bully. (hmmm...reminded me of a couple old boyfriends...) That was a downer cause by the second day...between his antics and the frustration of dealing with the tailor we were ready to get out of there. That's when we met Heena Singh...the local female, no non-sense designer who set the tailor straight, took us under her wing and showed us the friendly, altrustic side of India. She is an amazing dynamo and such a sweetheart. She drove us around (Actually her driver did the driving), back and forth to the tailor...translated our needs and intentions...and even introduced us to her family both in their home and later at the restaurant. A huge thanks goes out to her and I hope to follow her success as a designer.

Well so much and I'm not even telling you all of it. We rented a car and driver from Jodphur to Udaipur in order to see the spectacular fort and temple along the way. To make a long story short...the original car broke down 1 hour out of Jodphur and after another hour of waiting we packed ourselves into a rollerskate of a car. We saw the temple (where we were befriended by many an Indian tourist who wanted to show off their children and chat) but the driver failed to take us by the fort. Oh well...the drive was lovely - hills, trees, riverbeds, stone walls delineated property lines...really spectacular. It was so exciting to be on our way and to finally arrive in Udaipur. I'm currently in a fan cooled room (and so excited to have a room all to myself!!) overlooking the infamous Lake Palace (we walked out there and tried to get in to take a look around...but much like the Oberoi Rajvilas in Jaipur they didn't look to kindly on non-guests and insisted on a rather handsome "admission" in the form of a per person minimum to be used in their restaurant/ bar - almost 2.5X my current night accommodation - as the price of entry)...but unfortunately there's no lake. There really hasn't been much of a lake in approx. 6 years. There is a small patch of water in front of the Lake Palace, with a boat to ferry you to and from the hotel and for those who insist on experiencing the lake but other than that it's pretty dried up. The proprietors of the Lake Palace have even taken to cultivating a garden around the perimeter of the hotel in a beautification effort. We had to watch the James Bond movie "Octopussy" to be reminded of the lake and green that once was Udaipur (that movie was filmed here many years ago and in addition to being shown in restaurants is also looped 24/7 on a local TV station). There were fireworks over the lake palace last night that I was able to watch from my bedroom window. Today we're off to see the sites and to visit Josie's tailor. It's really fun to have clothes custom made and for so little money. Additionally we'll be making plans for the overnight trip to Diu in a couple days from now...I can't wait!!

It's been over 6 months - I can hardly believe it - but I think I may be ready to come back home....in a few months time! ;)

4.12.05 - Things are looking up in Rajasthan

So what have I been doing since drifting past the ghats in Varanasi? The following is list of "experiences" since leaving that sacred city, some good and some bad - although I try to focus on the good and leave out the stories about the filth, poverty, smells, etc...but trust me that's all part of the experience of being here. It's been about one more week and I'm not quite as shocked as I was and I'm becoming hardened, seriously, to all the people that I have to interact with...those on the street and those not. I'm hoping that soon I'll let my guard down, and perhaps stop being so "assertive" from the outset. In the few instances where the guard was let down I was pleasantly surprised with the outcome and what can be gained from the kindnesses of strangers and the insight that that interaction has added to this experience. Read on....

KHAJURAHO
Stopping in Khujaraho to visit some temples preserved as world historical monuments. They are reknown for the very erotic sculptures that decorate the surfaces of the temples in the area...as well as the facial expressions on the figures. Truly interesting. Apparently the temples were used as a teaching tool back in the 9th-13th century...to show couple how to spice up their love life. The full kama sutra is depicted. Without a guide I wouldn't have picked up all the nuances...including depictions of bestiality....but so happy I paid for that one! I have to admit that I actually blushed throughout much of the tour and felt a little uncomfortable with some of the descriptions provided by the guide. But it was all factual...I think....
After touring the temples I decided to check out the ayurvedic clinic and got a "treatment" and massage. This consisted on the "doctor" (a truly lovely man from Kerala a state in southern India reknown for this type of medecine) first giving me an assessment which included determining my blood type just by feeling my wrists, head, etc....as well as using touch to ascertain any other ailments. He was really right on without me saying anything. Following that I proceeded upstairs to a room where, dressed only in my birthday suit, I laid on a table/ grass mat as he and his wife proceeded to administer the massage - kneed me, massage me, rub my head, etc. with some lovely smelling oils for about one hours. I have to admit that initially it was a little, no wait, actually really weird...but eventually I got over it. It was a thoroughly enjoyable experience that was followed by an hour discussion with the "doctor" over a cup of chai (tea). (Such invitations to sit down for a cup of tea go on all day long as you wander the streets in India.) He gave me some recommendations for doctors and spas to visit when I head to Kerala - the home of ayurvedic medecine. I would like to check myself in - just have to weigh my financial situation. I want to stay out on the road as long as I can...and still do a bit of shopping.
That same evening, and this was exceptionally packed and fun-filled day, we were invited for dinner by one of the guys who works at the hotel. This was one instance where it paid to "let our guard down" and to trust a guy just off the street when we arrived at a new town. "Ganga", his nickname, is a nice guy, 25 years old, married for 10 years with 3 kids, trying to make ends meet while supporting both his family and his parents. It didn't sound like he really gets along with his wife (arranged marriage) because he was quite excited about the fact that she was out of town and we can enjoy a nice evening with his 3 kids, mother and father. So we went with Ganga to pick up some food (including the fresh fish...and yes, I did have to convince myself that de-scaling would remove all the pestilents carried by the flies that blanketed my dinner) and then headed out in the auto-rickshaw to his village on the outskirts of Khajuraho. Talk about living with the bare minimum. It was truly shocking, and while we've seen situations like this before (ie. when trekking) this was the first time we'd been "taken in" and entertained. The village kids were immediately taken with my digital camera and it was a little nutty at times...but great way to pass the time while Ganga got the fire going and started preparing the fish curry. It was nice to meet his extended family and his mother was such a treat. We couldn't communicate that well but we managed...and I brought along my little photo album so I could show off my "mummy", "daddy", "brother"...and a variety of other shots of friends and family in far flung locations. I was even requested to do an encore of my presentation. It was fun to share (and I tried to present it in an entertaining manner)...and I'm sure much was lost on them and in the world of arranged marriage the concept of divorce (mummy and daddy not together that's why there's another woman/ man standing with daddy/mummy). I also realized that I have lots of photos of me and my friends dressed up in crazy outfits. They must think we're crazy - and it's certainly a different life from what they're use to. When dinner was finally ready we sat outside of their house and ate and chatted some more. It was a really humbling experience...to be in the presence of people with so little yet so open and willing to give what they had...to entertain and be entertained. We met his entire family: mother, father, brother (wife + 5 kids), Ganga (+3 kids) and his sister (a cutey not yet betrothed). He wants to give so much to his family and he works hard but life is difficult. He can't afford electricity so he "steals" it from the main line which means hooking it up when the "authorities" aren't looking every day. He wants his children to have the best education as possible but that requires going to a private school and that costs money. The family has to travel a fair distance just to get water...and this limits their opportunities for growing vegetables, etc. My heart goes out to them and in leaving we hopefully left a decent sized monetary gift but I hope to continue to help them going forward....

Did I mention that as a value add on the bus ride from Satna to Khajuraho I got to hold a 6 month old baby girl? Yep - when we boarded the very crowded bus the "man in charge" made a point of ushering me (leaving MC in back of the bus) to a privileged seat at the front of the bus. It was nice to sit down but didn't really matter because there were body parts everywhere...the bus was jammed packed. At one point a young family with their 3 young kids boarded the bus...including their tiny baby. There was no room for them to sit and they couldn't carry the baby so she was entrusted to my care...just cause I was sitting in the front seat! I held on to her, shielded her, kept her from falling to and fro for an entire hour! Many people at the front of the bus thought it was funny but for me it was a treat. And the other two little boys were just the cutest and they were also holding on to me for dear life as the bus navigated some rather hairy turns. It was an experience. Getting off the bus I handed over the little girl and the father and mother both said thank you...but I was the one who had to thank them. Such a treat! We'll
see what happens on the next bus ride.

ORCCHA/AGRA/ JAIPUR
Finally made it to Jaipur (known as the Pink City) and things are looking up. Not to mention that I started the day staring at the Taj. What a sight!!! I was honestly breathless and spent quite awhile just contemplating the grandeur from all angles. (despite the very hefty entrance fee - almost $20!!) After that we got out of Agra - not much else to do. Headed to the train station, found out that it'd be better to take the bus, some "nice" man took us under his wing (and we were advised never to talk to anyone at the train station) and he was actually helpful and we ended up on a relatively nice, uncrowded bus. While we waited we started up chatting with the owner of the hotel who proved to be a most invaluable resource, turned us on to our wonderful hotel in Jaipur...and told us that if we needed anything during our stay in India to give him a call. I almost started crying!!!
The Hotel Pearl Palace in Jaipur is a treat...they have a great rooftop terrace, and the proprietor is quite artsy designing furniture, jewellery, etc.
We toured the city - we were the only english speaking tourists on the tour. Funny to be in the position. The guide would rattle off in Hindi...and then get to the abbreviated English version...and even that was hard to figure out at times. It was a great tour for seeing the highlights in and around the old City (which is in fact terracotta colored).
I was determined to see the infamous Rajvilas hotel (Oberoi hotel) that Bill Clinton stayed in while visiting and the same hotel that hosted the wedding of "Mr Oberoi's" daugther. So I dragged MC on a rather long expedition out of the city...only to find out that most of the facilities are reserved for guests only!!! How frustrating. But they were kind enough to have the doorman show us around the grounds. It was a bit embarrassing and even more embarrassing to have to go back because we couldn't catch a taxi so far out of town. Yep - it's 8pm and we're stuck in the middle of nowhere - no one wants us!!!! (unless we coughed up $450 to stay at Rajvilas) Luckily the security guard turned us on to the local bus!!!! It was an experience and a nice glimpse in to the life of the locals, it cost about 1/10 of the cost of the taxi to get out there! Nothing like a little adventure...and what a difference to go from the Rajvilas to the local bus...but I almost prefer the latter because at least they honestly tried to be friendly.

Rajasthan is definitely much better than the places we visited beforehand...although I did really like Varanasi....
It's actually much cooler than expected...it's funny to see camels actually taking the place of horses and oxen....and incredible that women can do the most menial tasks fully dressed in the most beautiful saris....digging in dirt, working the fields, hauling manure....incredible.

Went to a Bollywood film (Bewafaa) in the most fabulous theater in India. It would fit in among the Mann's Chinese theaters...it was that glorious (in a more art deco kind of way) Apart from a few english words or phrases (which seemed to take place at critical moments) the entire thing was in Hindi....and it had me transfixed!!! I usually don't like it when people break out in to song - but we're talking high production values and incredible staging. A feast for the senses. I'm now hooked on the music video station that takes the musical sequences from the movies and shows them independently. So much drama....so much action....all packed in to one rather long music video. And it helps when the lead actor is a total babe!!! ;) He's got a new one coming out in a couple weeks that I hope to catch as well....

We're now in Pushkar (known as the Blue City) - and it's even better than Jaipur. It's much smaller and centered around a lake...a holy lake. Consequently there is no meat, eggs or alcohol served in the area (the latter hasn't been all that common in India anyway). Our hotel is right on the lake which is edged by ghats (the stairs leading down to the water - much like Varanasi) and the entire city is painted white or blue. It's funny because it kind of reminds me of Greece. I have to keep reminding myself where I am.

Things are looking up.

4.2.05 - Varanasi, the city on the Ganges

Well - it's going to take awhile. I'm now in Varanasi - the holy city on the Ganges where people come to bath (purify) but also to die. Lovely city - along the river that is. Took a morning boat trip along the river - 5:30am to be exact. It was a nice cool morning as we set out in the row boat and headed north along the very still river....the sun starting to appear in the east (the city is situated along the west side of the Ganges). The river was a veritable hive of of activity starting south near Assi Ghat, a popular bathing ghat and where we are staying, to the main burning ghat to the south. It's about one hour each way and the river got progressively more crowded as we approached the main ghat (Dh.... Ghat - don't have my book with me) Thisburning ghat was the last ghat on our tour, and one I visited on foot yesterday (accompanied by much more hassle from touts and locals), is really quite incredible. Cremations are carried out 24 hours a day and we got to see a number in various stages of cremation. We watched as family members (all men) carried the body on a stretched (wrapped in cloth and a few ornamental items, mainly flowers) down to the Ganges and washed it (through the cloth) before carrying it back up the bank where it is either deposited immediately on the designated pile of wood or it is laid to rest until the pile has been erected. Other family members watch from a slight distance. But the body is laid on the pile of wood and following a very brief "ceremony" it set alight - along with some incense tossed on for good measure to lessen smell of burning flesh. Whatever scent is produced - It is truly a distinct smell. The body generally burns for about 3 hours (and you do get to see quite a bit as the cloth wrap burns away) before the ashes are collected and distributed in the water. It seems that families take boats to distribute the ashes themselves. It's just the craziest thing - and it happens 24/7. No photos which is a good thing - and I would never dream of capturing such a sensitive activity as this on film. Watching it all just really makes you think about your own physical self....and how quickly that can disappear.

Walking along the ghats is truly spectacular - staircase upon staircase leading down to the water. People bathing, brushing their teeth, swimming, praying, washing laundry, etc. in the most polluted river in the world!!! (according to the Lonely Planet) The fact that water buffalo bath just upriver, sewage dumps directly into the water in various places (although we did not see any men pee directly in the water...just off to the side...but we know where that goes) and apparently 45,000 bodies float downstream (and yes, I did see one...a tiny baby) seems to have no effect on their activities. If that many people swim, bath, etc in the water it can't be THAT bad (right, hahaha) - but I'll be avoiding that liquid like the plague! Even last night when I went to place a floating candle in the water and make a wish (very magical indeed) I was petrified of coming in contact with that stuff.

I do enjoy watching the laundrymen (and most are men) washing clothes (they beat the clothes on slabs of rock and wash vigorously) and making full use of the stairs of the ghats. It's lovely to see the saris, the long, colorful pieces of cloth, set out to dry the length of the stairs. The clothes are laid out and/ or hung to dry on the banisters. Since we'd given our clothes to the laundryman to be laundered just the day before I was frantically looking for my clothes and rather concerned that I had handed over a new top that was going to be so "mistreated." Well the new me isn't going to cling to objects (that's what I keep telling myself) so when the clothes were returned, neatly pressed and, I must admit, smelling of the Ganges, I wasn't too surprised that the color in the new shirt did bleed a bit...but that's what I get for not doing it myself, right? ;) It did have to be some of the most expensive laundry we've had done to day - but given all the work that goes in to beating the dirt out I think I'll just chalk it up to experience. I now have some of the holiest clothes in India! ;)

Slowly easing into the swing of things here - but it will take some time and I just have to accept that. We ventured out to Sarnath today - a village approx. 20km from Varanasi - the site where Buddha gave his first sermon. Interesting place but even more interesting was the drive out there...where our driver pulled off some amazing moves in some of the most harrowing street driving to date!!! We even witnessed an physical altercation between a moto-driver and a taxi driver. Full on contact!!! I won't be navigating my way through these streets any time soon...there's a whole new set of rules....

Heading back to our guesthouse which affords a great view of the river from the balcony outside our room - or a even greater view from the rooftop balcony. I don't even mind that just across the street is a little colony where the women spend their day making "dung patties" for fire fuel. You gotta do what you gotta do.