6.30.06 - Where does the time go?

I do apologize for the lack of communication since the end of the trip and my return. I guess I was a little sad to leave Africa - the memories, accomplishments, the new friends, my "family", Mama Wambura and the kids at Lohada. Now I'm dealing with re-entry...and I feel like this is finally the end of my travelling adventures and that makes it a little sad. I'm happy to be back with friends and easily reachable via mobile phone at normal hours of the day. I'm surprised how quickly I've gotten back in to the complexities of life in LA - the traffic, expensive hair cuts (so worth it though), all the people, moving...
Am back in Santa Monica. Moved back in to my old place and am living with Sharon again. It's so nice to feel the comforts of home again. I guess this is home.
You may reach me on my new mobile: 310-804-1200.
Love to hear from you.
Cheers
D

6.14.06 - Not everyone can eat hamburgers

Made a feast but the family had problems eating...I swear their teeth are so bad they can't physically chew the hamburger....thus all the mushy food.... The burgers tasted quite good (I'd gotten the recipe from a local restaurant) even though I was a bit concern cooking on a kerosene "stand" (for lack of better description) with no temperature control. The oldest son was the perfect assistant and has the uncanny ability to estimate the time without a watch.

I did manage to replace the stable white bread with wheat rolls. Maybe that contributed to some of their slow eating as well. Hopefully they enjoyed some part of it and I'm trying not take it personally. I eat their stuff and don't necessarily like it...but at least they tried it and can tell their friends.

The hamburger was accompanied by chips. It was quite a chore to peel and cut the mountain of potatoes I'd estimated was needed to feed 8 people. I was using red potatoes which apparently are too "wet" to create the crispy fries we now and love. (Mama Godi manned the charcoal "grill" and fanned the flame to keep the oil nice and hot...it took about one hour +) But they tasted fine and the family seemed to eat those us...they were mushy. I had also picked up a block of cheddar cheese. The first for the them. They couldn't really understand what it was. They all claimed it was too salty but Mama Godi managed to go back for seconds and thirds!

We did the Tanzanian thing of sharing pieces of cake...various combinations of people feeding me bite sized pieces followed by having them dig in themselves afterwards. All this celebrating was done in the light and sound of the World Cup game that was on TV. Once that thing is on it never goes off, not even muted when they take time to pray before their meals.

Off to pick up 3 little boys in a bit. They went home to stay with their mother but she can't cope. And after seeing where they live in a tiny mud hut and worried that mum may go back to using the eldest as her guinea pig to test drugs...well I can't wait to get them and bring them back to the orphanage.

Sitting in this internet cafe with a bunch of dolled up girls on some exchange from the US. I so haven't done anything witih myself in so long...but did make an effort to shave my legs the other night. Needed to use a flashlight and the bucket shower...a little dodgy at times but made it unscathed!!!

6.13.06 - Getting settled

It's been an eventful past couple days - emotionally draining as well.
Sunday was filled with family activity. Woke up to pouring rain. But that didn't stop people from heading to church at 730am although I was assured it was a relatively low turnout. Can't imagine the size of the congregation under pleasant conditions. I had figured that I might actually recognize a bit of the service/ liturgy/ hymns given that I was in a Lutheran Church. This would hopefully make up for not understanding a word of Swahili. No such luck. The music was interesting and the choir very upbeat but I spent 2 hours just taking it all in. I found it to be quite peaceful actually. I was absolutely flabbergasted when we were asked to get up 3 times to contribute to the offering baskets that were positioned in the front of the church. Then I really felt like I was standing out being the only mzungu in the building. A little weird.... Apparently they offer 3 opportunities to contribute to 3 different aspects of the church/ ministry. All I can say is that the final basket, whatever it was for, got a major contribution from me because I didn't have any smaller bills.... I hope it goes to a good cause! ;)

The rest of Sunday was spent with Godi and Given as we went to visit one of their relatives. Mama Godi's sister actually. She was so welcoming and her exuberance more than made up for the language barrier. She invited us in and served us ugali and meat!! I was so excited to hear the word meat I readily accepted her invitation. Honestly I didn't know what else to do. But our diet has been very starchy and I've been craving protein so my ears (and stomach) perked up when I heard the word. Well low and behold I go more than I bargained for when she came out of the kitchen with a piping hot bowl of liver. One of my least favorite things - but I some how managed to eat a few pieces and realize it was quite a sacrifice for them to offer such a treat. For that I am so thankful.

Mama Alex and her boys were very energetic and loved showing us their photos. So I decided to whip out the digital...and what do you know? We've got a photo shoot on our hands with Mama Alex making 3 outfit changes!!! And of course I got to pose with each and every one of them. I was happy that I could share that with them and get some family snaps as well since they hadn't seen Godi since he was 10!!! (he's now 21) Before leaving Mama Alex gave me one of her kangas (like a sarong piece of cloth) and we exchanged information. Her boys are learning English so we'll see if we're able to correspond. In any case I'll be sure to post a card from LA.

The rest of the day was characterized by firsts. I introduced Godi and Given to the banana split and then treated Godi to nachos. He'd never had cheese before!! (actually it seems no one here has heard of cheese...stunning!!!) We had gone to Masai Camp to watch a World Cup match and shoot some pool (I hate pool but I'm seriously looking for stuff to do!). It was good to chat with him outside of the house and he really opened up about his life and hopes for the future. Incredible what he has achieved bouncing around from one family member to the next. When we got home he was so proud to show me all of his school certificates. Something he hasn't really shared with any one else. That made me happy to feel he could trust me.

The evening was spent playing cards. I had a pack and had introduced them to the family earlier in the day when the power was out. Since then they have taught me a game they are all pros at....and I'm not. But it's fun to see the family bonding over the game, having fun, laughing...something we hadn't been doing staring at the TV all the previous nights. This has continued every night since.

Monday it was back at the orphanage. School's out until early July so this is an opportunity for the kids to head home with their families or relatives. All the kids were excited when I arrived in the morning. They all spent time cleaning up, packing their plastic bags with their clothes/ belongings, etc. And then waiting. Parents would arrive in the yard and there'd be flurry of activity. The parents waited until after Mama Wambura had a word with them before taking the kids. They all sat patiently. I guess we were all nervous about who would show up to claim their kids. Not all the kids had a place to go. There was such tension in the air as the kids waited for more adult faces to arrive. Eventually they stopped.

Mama Wambura took the opportunity to get all the kids together to say good bye to me since I'd be gone before many came back. That was tough. I stood in the classroom while the kids walked in in single file and presented me with a card and candle sticks. It was very touching. I gave them all a hug and we posed for the camera. It was hard not to tear up.

But after that the kids were off. Those who were leaving said good-bye and walked out with their parents/ relatives. It was happy to see those reunions. But also a bit nerve wracking. Some of these parents weren't exactly known for having the best parenting skills and the kids were going back to some very different conditions. That was worrisome. But you hope for the best.

As they walked off (probably 20 or so) the ones left behind were so sad. The sadness was crushing. Especially to see the little ones 3 and 4 years old, who'd gotten ready to leave, packed their bags and hoped someone would show up. Some of them have no one and have never left on these breaks...but still they waited and hoped. Consoling them was difficult because I was tearing up too. The little guys: Innocent and Wema were unconsolable (they were tired and emotionally wrecked). What do you do? I tried to comfort them as best as I could. And there were 2 sisters dressed up in pink satin dresses, like little princesses, who were also left behind. They were so upset. But as time passed they seemed to get a little better - and I eventually got the books out and that seemed to be a good distraction. But it really has to hurt.

This morning we went and checked on 3 of the boys - and all I can say is that I'm going round to pick them up tomorrow morning to bring them back to Camp Moses. They are staying with their mother in a tiny one room mud house. I can't even imagine. There's one bed and a couch...that's it. The boys had been horribly abused (one used as a guinea pig for testing his parent's drugs) and it doesn't appear that the mother is able to cope. The boys are 13, 8 and 2.5 I believe but you'd think so much younger. I can't wait to go get them first thing tomorrow. That news actually put a smile on the mother's face...prior to that she wouldn't even make eye contact with us. Goodness - I just don't know what to say....

Two weeks isn't enough time but I'm happy I'm here to do what I can.

Tonight I'm heading back home to introduce the family to hamburgers and cake. A birthday bash like no other!!!

More later - hugs!!
D

6.10.06 - 1st week at the orphanage and World Cup kicks off in Tanzania

Hello!!
It's Saturday and pretty much a day like any other day in the house of Mama and Baba Godi. Levin and Praygod are off to school (until noon) and Godi is kicking aroung the house helping Mama Godi clean. She doesn't work on Saturday but her husband does. I should say she doesn't work at the office but she's definitely giving it her all in and around the house. That woman never stops and I appreciate her effort.
I'm in town to run some errands since I leave on Friday and won't like have the chance again. I plan on cooking for the family on Tuesday as part of my birthday celebration. Since meat is scarce I'm going to try cooking up some hamburgers (got the recipe from a local restaurant) and fries. I'll likely need help operating the charcoal burner thing-y and managing the fries but least MG (Mama Godi) won't be doing all the work herself (I do try to help but they really don't let me do that much).
It's been a pretty straightforward week - go to work, come home. There have been highs and lows. Let me try to simplify it in a list.

Home-stay:
- Feeling more like one of the family. Joke around with the kids and parents although Baba Godi is a bit more serious.
- Brought home Cadbury chocolate for the crew - not sure if they'd ever had it before. Lazaro, he helps around the house, claims it was too sweet. Not sure if he's ever tasted the tea - but I'd have to argue that it's not the sweetest thing!!!
- Breakfast consists of sweet hot tea and white bread. I bought some peanut butter and jam to add a little flavor - that quickly disappeared.
- Dinner is a family affair that generally starts around 2015 or 2030. We all sit in the living room, pray and dig in to the bowl of food prepared for the family. We've eaten: stewed green bananas and meat (like potato), rice with green pepper, carrot and onion (the big 3 that consistently re-occur in all cooking), spaghetti noodles with the big 3...and there's always fruit. We did have a lovely avocado (yes, I did eat it) and cucumber salad the other day as well. Hot sweet tea always accompanies the meal.
- Pit toilets: proving to be a challenge in the dark but have figured out a flashlight set up that faciliates the process. Probably too much info but it's really funny.
- Bucket showers - at least there's hot water when I ask for it. And it's very hot. Still need to get a brush because the dirt (and it's very dirty, although I'm told it gets much dustier as the year progresses) gets ground in.
- Power outages are starting now during the day. While the rainy season brought much needed rain (we're apparently in a drought) that rain didn't collect where needed at the source of the hydro-electric plants that power this country. We're told to expect power outages during the day from now until November or whenever the rains start again! We'll see how that works out.
- The family has enjoyed looking at my "gadgets" including the iPod nano and digital camera. Hope to keep the digital camera out and available to catch some more candid moments.
- We basically come home, eat and watch TV. It's nice to chat and hang out but it's getting a little old. I've been watching way too much TV. I'd like to go out but we're strongly advised against it. It's frustrating but do realize I"m a prime target and defnitely stick out at night.

Work:
- Kids are great and even more cuddly after their shower and a change of clothes! ;) Yesterday I pulled out the books and gave each child a book. Simple pleasures. They were starved for books. They loved the pictures and I tried to add what I could.
- Deanna Deanna Deanna whenever I'm within earshot
- Playing airplane gets really tiring with 30 kids
- Visited the slum Unga Ltd and I'm told we took the good road in. That was difficult and rather draining yesterday.
- So much to do so little time. The Camp really needs a Manager/ Administrator to tackle and implement the larger projects
- Chatting with Gayle, the volunteer working at the church next door.
- The walk to work is filled with Hello, Mambo, Jambo, How are you, etc. I like the 40 minutes and try to do it both ways. It's a great way to decompress after the day. It's really hard to leave sometimes.
- Waiting to get picked up yesterday I had some woman grab me by the arm saying "Mzungu" (white person) and pointing down the road to a UN car. I was waiting for a ride but not that one. Turns out they were there to pick up another Mzungu who showed up while I was trying to tell her that I was the wrong one. Does that make any sense?
- I drink lots of water much to the amazement of everyone at Camp Moses.
- I've been painting the new bath house and toilet house. I've been using a roller. Had to create my own stick to reach the far away sections (the ladder is a bit dodgy). I had stopped to break and while doing so someone took my stick and used for fire wood!!! That created a bit of a delay but convinced someone to help me fashion a better stick (one that wouldn't give me splinters!). So far so good - that hasn't been used for fire wood! I've applied the first coat, the white undercoat. Not sure if they'll need my services to apply the colored paint...they may leave that to someone more experienced! ;)
- Stop in at Masai Camp when I need to de-compress and/ or check email to and from work. Desperately needed the "space" yesterday to think. It's really geared to travellers and makes me think of my days on the road. So comfortable and relaxed: food, music (Buddha Bar type stuff), TV with Western channels, rattan furniture, breezy...just lovely. Will likely head there to watch the England v Paraguay game today mid afternoon.

In town running errands, picking up bits and bobs. One week to go. Can't believe what I look like walking around here. But there's no mirror upstairs near my room, only one in the "family" bathroom downstairs and I always feel weird intruding. Oh well, this is a beauty contest and I'd rather not draw any attention to myself! ;)

World Cup games will likely dominate our homelife - at least it's English commentary!!!

Hugs
D

6.7.06 - 2 wks is not enough time for an mzungu (white person/ foreigner)

Day 3 of my time at Lohada. It's overwhelming the amount of stuff there is to do and organize - but even more amazing what has been accomplished to date since my friend Tina and Alicia first met Mama Wambura!
2 weeks isn't enough time but I'm trying to take care of loose ends and hope to get to painting the kitchen and bathroom next week when most of the kids are on holidays - and will be back with relatives (for those who have relatives to take them).

So much to say...but the kids know my name and yell "Deanna" whenever they see me or want something. They also rattle off things in Swahili but that does me no good. I do what I can and have taken a liking to the few semi-inflated soccer balls to help bridge the language barrier. Yesterday I noticed lots of large, sharp pieces of glass in the yard and started picking them up. Now all the kids want to bring me their pieces of glass. Great...what have I done. I have several dozen children scoping the yard for sharp objects to give me. It's overwhelming. Additionally I ran interference with one of the little ones who picked up an axe that'd been lying around. I have to remember it's Africa and people are doing the best that they can. They honestly are - there are just so many kids and so few resources but the group of workers is making sure the kids are generally well cared for - better than what they would face were they to stay on the streets or with their families (if they have them).

I'm staying with a host family - Mama and Baba Godi (sp?) and their 3 boys + a house boy and a nephew. I have my own room that is actually quite comfortable and perfect for at the end of the day when I'm totally exhausted. I've enjoyed helping the Mama cook, listening to music in their living room and just trying to join in where I can. The evening meals have been lovely (who knew you could stew green bananas and they'd taste like potato!!) and I've enjoyed watching the process of the cooking over a coal stove. The sweet tea is very very very sweet so I've learned to drink that slowly.

I've been pretty much cloistered away at their home at night. Once it gets dark (around 7pm) I've been advised not to go out. No one seems to go out in that area. I'm dying to visit the Masai Camp and might drag the nephew (Godfrey) with me. He's going to university next year for communications/ computer science. I've enjoyed talking to him about his experience with the educational system and what he hopes to accomplish. It's honestly quite scary the hurdles they must overcome. He's never used a computer before and is taking a class - however only gets about 5 minutes of practical time. I've told him I'd treat him to an hour at the internet cafe if he's interested in browsing around a bit more. I'll keep you posted.

Every day is an adventure. I'm in town right now and heading to the Arusha Times office - I've written an article that will appear in the paper this weekend. I'll provide the link and the text later on but basically it starts off with: "I should be sitting on a beach in Zanzibar resting up and settling in to watch World Cup!" Figured it was timely...and honestly I've felt like that on and off. I'm dirty and tired but love being around the kids. I'll be happy to have a shower since I'm reliant on a bucket for the being (can't seem to get the shampoo rinsed out and my head itches...at least I hope it's the shampoo residue and not something else!). I'm sticking it out with the host family although at my age I feel a little silly...but it's an experience you don't get every day.

Thanks for your emails. I love reading your updates and look forward to more.... And check out www.lohada.org where there's information about donations. Seriously these kids have so little...

Cheers
D

6.5.06 - Safari-ing

Ok - so after the 5 day trek up Kili I was delighted to find out that the skills required for the 2 day/ 1 night safari was...the ability to sit, stand and take a little bit (actually a lot) of jostling as you wind your way through the dirt roads in the parks. Sign me up!!! Not to mention I got a killer deal joining the 3 Scottish guys (the ones I was determined to beat to the top of Kili).

So it was the 4 of us in an open topped van that was destined to Taranguire National Park and the infamous (and difficult to spell/ pronounce) the Ngorongoro Crater (the largest unbroken caldera in the world and home to so many animals). Very exciting!!! Not a great start since our driver showed up late...and then proceeded to take us to various stores to load up on provisions. I did manage to visit a real grocery store in Arusha (what i wouldn't give for a salad right now!!) and found out where all the expats shopped. Used the opportunity to use the loo..the first time I've ever been patted down to use the facilities. I have not shame. It looked like a good clean place to use the facilities.... ;)

Finally we were off - through the country side filled with field of corn, sunflowers and other crops (including a large coffee plantation near Arusha). All very beautiful. And combine that with the striking shades of red worn by the Masai tribes people and it's just magical. Stunning to see mud huts, home to the Masai, and thistle lined pens that dot the landscape as well that keep the kept animals in and the wild animals out. But there are Masai everywhere - and they are also the shrewdest attraction - quick to refuse a photo if cash is not exchanged. Fair but it certainly takes some of the glamor out of their existence if you ask me. But understandable especially when they seemingly have so little - they have to bank on their culture. I'm curious to know what the car tire shoes are like to wear - it's quite the fashion statement among shoe wearing Masai.

The parks were as I imagined them although nothing can really describe the sight of the crater and how the ecosystem is sustained within it. We saw just about every animal up close and personal although I definitely needed my binocular to really hone in the rhino and just to be alittle nosier with all the animals. I have to thank everyone at the Activision Benelux office for that invaluable gift. THANK YOU!!!

The Taranguire NP is how I would expect a safari - drive around and try to spot the various animals in their natural environment (hard to believe that). The 3 boys kept it interesting my rating the animals "toughness" by how many punches it would take to bring the thing down. You can imagine my joy with that conversation. Additionally there was talk to animal on animal matches (ie. lion vs. cheetah, rhino vs. buffalo, etc) - and don't be surprised if such matches are soon broadcast from Yemen or some equally loose ruled country.

We camped at a campsite near Lake Manyara in preparation for our tour of the Crater the following day. Check out the site: http://www.tanzania-web.com/parks/ngorongo.html Here we saw a buffalo that had just been born there in the road. The mother was protecting it from the hyenas (umbilical cord still hanging out of her) and there we watch her protect the baby until it took it's firat steps. Hyena still followed but at least it was a start!!! We also saw lions, cheetahs, zebra, wildebeest, buffalo, ostrich, hippo, rhino, giraffes (Taranguire only), elephant....flamingos, hyena, impala...everything!!! Truly amazing.

It was also amazing to be in the company of the Scottish guys - in their mid 20s. Interesting wildlife that! ;)

6.2.06 - The top of Africa

At 7:10am on May 31st I reached the top of Africa - Uhuru Peak (approx 5896m) on Mt. Kilimanjaro. And I've got the certificate to prove it (complete with details about my age!!) It was a gruelling 5 day excursion although apart from the summit day the physical requirements weren't too extraordinary and fortunately I didn't have too many problems with altitude sickness on the way up. Here's a quick run down of events:

Day 1 Hike from Marangu Gate to Mandara. (3 hours)
There were 2 other groups at the camp that night and I was lucky enough to meet Mark and Max (father and son, Americans living in Pretoria, South Africa and working for the DEA) who provided many hours of great conversation and necessary encouragement along the way. We commiserated about the cold at night and were equally amazed with the amount of food we were provided on a daily basis. On arriving at Mandara camp site I had no idea what to expect but was quite excited to see that were staying in covered huts - especially since the weather had been foggy and wet. The first two days were overcast and I was definitely glad to have rain gear as we worked our way through the clouds.

Day 2 Hike from Mandara to Horombo (5-6 hours)
Hike through the clouds - cool and damp. Move from rain forest to the moorlands. Despite the dreary weather there was some amazing vegetation to be seen. Still not feeling any effects of altitude sickness but we're going pretty slowly to ensure proper acclimatization.

Day 3 Hike from Horombo to Kibo (5-6 hours)
Wake up to clear skies and a gorgeous view of the Uhuru peak. We're right above the clouds. Very cool. I was originally supposed to stay another day on the mountain but felt well enough to proceed and it was nice to be in the company of Mark and Max. So off we go...trekking gently uphill on our approach to the final leg towards the summit. Kibo hut is more rustic and cold. We're there for approx 9 hours to rest up before starting our final ascent at midnight. I get a headache. Altitude sickness. I continue with my OTC cocktail of aspirin (thins the blood), ibuprofen and naproxen. It seems to kick in in time for our final climb.

Day 4 Kibo to Uhuru Peak and back down to Horombo Huts (10 hours to climb to Uhuru and down + 3 more to Horombo...a very long day)
Start at midnight. Not much sleep since I started the trek but adrenaline is pumping. Got rid of the head ache and not tired. Start the ascent. Basically feels like we're climbing up a gravel pit...very loose ground. It's pitch dark outside but the stars are spectacular. Fortunately we don't have the usual winds that torment trekkers as they make their way up the scree. We walk very very slowly and I'm actually quite happy not to be able to see too much in front of me (we're all wearing head lamps) because I feel that would be very demoralizing. It's a long hike up there. We're joined by a few other trekkers along the way...one group started off a little too quickly and soon fell back due to the effects of altitude sickness. They made it to the top but we quite ill. Our group plodded along and reached Gilman's Point at 5:30am. This is basically at the top of the crater and in order to reach the true Uhuru Peak you have to walk around the crater for about 2 hours. Those last 2 hours are the killer!!! I don't know how I kept going - especialy surviving on nothing but 2 chocolate bars. And my water was now frozen. But I couldn't really think about that. Thanks to my guide we just kept moving forward. Still feeling fine - but once I saw the sign for Uhuru I just started crying uncontollably. Was this really happening? I've been wanting this for so long...and now I'm here!!! I was a total mess. Relieved, stunned...exhausted and not exactly sure how I was going to make it down the mountain! This is when the altitude sickness kicked in - along with the lack of food and water. I felt quite ill on the way down and was only mildly pleased by the fact that I could pretty much ski down the gravel slope. But somehow I got down, rested for all of 1 hour and proceeded to make my way to the Horombo Huts. So many mixed emotions - so many things to think about on that trip down the mountain.
Absolutely exhausted we hung out around the camp that afternoon and evening. Called it an early night and finally I was able to sleep like a baby. The first good night's sleep since my arrival in Africa. Such peace.

Day 5 Get me out of here - the trek from Horombo to Marangu Gate where we received our certificates.
Enough was enough. The summit was accomplished and I just wanted out. But that would take a total of 6 hours and some bad knee pain. But eventually it was done and I still couldn't believe it. Looking back up towards the peak - it just looked so different now. Actually having been there and endured that long trek. I was one of the lucky ones who wasn't really ill at the top. I think the majority of trekkers were quite ill at the top due to lack of oxygen. I think I was just so elated and overtaken by the whole thing I couldn't let myself feel bad. I had managed to make it to the top with Mark and Max in tow....at times I didn't think we'd make it. This is something we joked about over pizza last night (Max's request). Wow!

Today I've been a little out of sorts. I think still shellshocked! ;) 2 weeks left and much more to see and do. I love Moshi but am so ready to leave. More later.